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Dr. NarwhalsNumbNuts IV

PC Building First Time

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9 hours ago, Dr. NarwhalsNumbNuts IV said:

Shouldn't I go with a larger PSU, since the 650 W would be operating at 66% at max? 

 It can't hurt to have a bigger PSU in case you want to add more stuff in the future. However, you will be fine on 650W.

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3 hours ago, Fugner said:

 It can't hurt to have a bigger PSU in case you want to add more stuff in the future. However, you will be fine on 650W.

 

Or trade back to the regular ACX and use that money to bump up the PSU wattage. EVGA 850W GQ for $95+Tax

 

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B017HA3SO0/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496699809&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=850gq%2Bevga&th=1

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Just now, Sean said:

Good choice on the case, it's the one I have and it's incredibly roomy.

 

I'd say pony up the $40 for a Crystal 460X RGB, but you have to REALLY like tempered glass and RGB, and also hate optical drives/card readers

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1 hour ago, Roflstomp said:

 

I'd say pony up the $40 for a Crystal 460X RGB, but you have to REALLY like tempered glass and RGB, and also hate optical drives/card readers

But here's the thing, tempered glass looks so fucking good 

 

you cant say these things to me, it gets me goin

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If you plan on doing some heavy overclocks, I wouldn't use that cpu fan. If you just plan on running stock, or light overclock, then that cpu fan is pretty good at what it does. I think an area where you can save on cost is motherboard and ram. You really don't need your ram clocked at 3000mhz unless you are running a ryzen system. However, usually LPX series for ram doesn't fluctuate heavily in price from 2000 to 3000mhz, if you can afford the extra $5 dollars, then go for it.

 

I'm going to recommend something I haven't seen someone else recommend and that is looking for graphics card on sites like craigslists. About 2 weeks ago I manage to snag an Asus ROG strix 1080 for a good friend of mine for $450 from a seller who just HAD to sell it since he was deploying to some other part of the world for military. They usually retail around $550-$600. You do take that chance of getting a bad one; however, that is not common, and that extra money can go towards things like a better storage, cpu, or more case fans.

 

Another slightly more ballsy route to take is to find an RX580 or RX480 which retail cheaper than 1070 (yeah, I know, everyone here is a bitch and can't use anything but nvidia....but mah NVIDIA drivers are too good) and sell it in about 2-3 months to buy a better graphics card since the RX series are currently selling higher than when they were sold due to the recent craze of Ethereum mining. The RX480 is considered the better of the two for mining and most people in the know don't expect the price of these to drop anytime soon, therefore they are considered a good investment if you want to future-proof your system later on. You can expect to get a profit after selling it of about $50-$100 dollars, maybe even more.

 

Other than that, your system looks good. Expect to get maxed settings on basically everything right now at 1080P and still have around 120 frames depending on the game.

 

 

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https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dRpsFd

 

This is roughly the build the local PC parts store made for me with similar parts and specs that I listed before. They said that they can give me the 7600k and the z270 M3 mobo for 199.99$/109.99$ respectively, if i buy them together from them. 

 

I plan on getting that case, processor, mobo, GPU, HDD, SDD, wifi adapter for sure. I'll upgrade to a closed water cooling circuit later this summer, for about $119.9 (Corsair H100i v2). 

 

@HornyCat What do you think of that build? The price online and in store locally is comparable. I'd probably save on shipping a lot more too, so locally seems to be the best route. 

@Roflstomp I looked at the 460x case in store today. It has a little basement compartment and side bar internally to really maximize cable management. I have to have it. The associate said that it includes 3 fans, RBG, valued at over $100, and that alone would keep the system cooled down. 

 

It's a bit odd that the prices are similar, even with their price match and the discount on the CPU and mobo... 

 

EDIT: I do not plan on overclocking. Seems like a lot of risk for a little bit more juice. I'd rather extend the longevity of these parts. It's not like they're lacking in any regard... right? 

That mobo he showed me, in the PCPP above, is a lot better than the one I had previously. Tons more ports, 3.1, Thunderbolt, and USB C. Seems to be the best bet. PLus 7.1 audio can't hurt

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@Dr. NarwhalsNumbNuts IV What exactly is your budget? It seems like you are buying with your eyes now instead of following your own budget. If you switch the current cpu and gpu you have to an i5-7500 and a Zotac 1080 GTX 8GB AMP edition (which is by far one of the best 1080 cards), you would see better gaming performance and longevity AND it reduces your total price by about $10 dollars. There is absolutely no point in getting an unlocked K processor and that specific motherboard that you want if you are not going to overclock it. You are just wasting money for features you aren't even going to use.

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Just now, HornyCat said:

@Dr. NarwhalsNumbNuts IV What exactly is your budget? It seems like you are buying with your eyes now instead of following your own budget. If you switch the current cpu and gpu you have to an i5-7500 and a Zotac 1080 GTX 8GB AMP edition (which is by far one of the best 1080 cards), you would see better gaming performance and longevity AND it reduces your total price by about $10 dollars. There is absolutely no point in getting an unlocked K processor and that specific motherboard that you want if you are not going to overclock it. You are just wasting money for features you aren't even going to use.

Budget is a soft 1,000, prefer sub, but I want a beast of a PC that'll last a while. Obviously I'm a over budget, but it won't break my wallet. You're right, I'm very much willing to change my price line if it's a good deal. I've taken your suggestions, what do you think?

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So it looks good however, since you went from a 91 watt TDP on the i5-7600K to a 65 watt TDP with the i5-7500, you can afford to save a little money on the cpu cooler. If you don't know what TDP is, it's basically just a measure of how much heat the component is expected to produce in an average to above average use case. It's a good estimate to use when considering the temperature of things.

 

Realistically what you would be saving is maybe $5-15 dollars and the 212 evo really is a phenomenal cooler. I personally wouldn't change my cpu cooler even with the reduced TDP, but I am reminding you of this because the option is always there for you just in case you want to cut even more on cost.

 

Let me see if I could find you a much more appropriate motherboard with roughly the same amount of features. What you currently have is an overclockable motherboard and believe it or not, it add a good amount to the price and like you said, you won't be overclocking, so it's a waste of money.

 

 

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Just now, Fugner said:

>Wifi adapter

 

WutFace

What would you recommend beyond that? I'll be on ethernet when im at my apartment, i just need the adapter for when im home for 3 months out of the year. I get that dropping $40 for it for such a small time period is silly, so lemme know what you think

Just now, HornyCat said:

So it looks good however, since you went from a 91 watt TDP on the i5-7600K to a 65 watt TDP with the i5-7500, you can afford to save a little money on the cpu cooler. If you don't know what TDP is, it's basically just a measure of how much heat the component is expected to produce in an average to above average use case. It's a good estimate to use when considering the temperature of things.

 

Realistically what you would be saving is maybe $5-15 dollars and the 212 evo really is a phenomenal cooler. I personally wouldn't change my cpu cooler even with the reduced TDP, but I am reminding you of this because the option is always there for you just in case you want to cut even more on cost.

 

 

I think ill stick with that. The 212 evo is too good to pass up tbh

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Stay with your motherboard. I just realized that the B250 chipset and H270 Chipset don't allow ram at speeds higher than 2400mhz. Just get the z270 motherboard since your ram is 3000mhz

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Just now, HornyCat said:

Stay with your motherboard. I just realized that the B250 chipset and H270 Chipset don't allow ram at speeds higher than 2400mhz. Just get the z270 motherboard since your ram is 3000mhz

Got it. Next question. Do I need any more fans, any risk of bottlenecking, power supply being constantly used over 50% at max, ect?  Anything I need to be aware of before buying anything?

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The 460X doesn't bring an exhaust fan, it only comes with 3 intake fans at the front. Get one exhaust fan and mount it at the rear.

 

Your case does come with a fan hub so you can mount two 120mm fans at the top, one at the rear (which is what I recommend) and then connect it even though your motherboard has four 4-pin fan connectors on the mobo.

 

Personally, and just from experience, I would stick with the 3 fans in the front and the additional 1 in the rear. Your temps for your cpu at max usage should not even pass 70 degrees Celsius and you can expect at max load for your GTX1080 to come to around 70-80 degrees Celsius which is perfectly fine.

 

 

I've added the proper rear fan for you in the part list, it's around an additional $19-$20 dollars. I've also changed your power supply from a Thermaltake TRX-650M to the Fully modular EVGA 650W supernova G3 since the one you wanted was not in stock, had a slightly worse warranty, and was about $10 dollars more expensive. Check it out if you want to. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/btFDd6

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On 6/5/2017 at 2:54 AM, Dr. NarwhalsNumbNuts IV said:

Okay, y'all convinced me. What do think of this? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FBzgcc 

 

I added a slightly better GPU than the one you suggested, added a nicer case, and dropped to the i5. 

 

It says the max voltage of the build is 430 W. Shouldn't I go with a larger PSU, since the 650 W would be operating at 66% at max? 

Yes you should probably get a larger PSU for future upgrades and to make sure everything is nice and stable.

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